Showing posts with label Fusion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fusion. Show all posts

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Hatchi by Roberto Cortez @ BreadBar (Century City)

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If you think you are a creative culinary chef and starting to starting to get an itch to in wanting to be the head chef in a kitchen. You probably will get the followings popped in your mind kitchen: you have work the grind of the industry in thinking you have paid their dues, wanting to be one that get noticed for the dishes that are created on the menu each and every night, and most of all you felt the "need to move on to new challenges".

Of course those are fair assertions and assessments that are being thought out loud, but how can those chefs go about in showcasing their talents? It's not as easy like the other jobs in uploading resumes to Monster.com .

HERB STAINED SALMON - whipped jasmine rice, pickled cucumber paste, passionfruit chili noodles
HERB STAINED SALMON - whipped jasmine rice, pickled cucumber paste, passion fruit chili noodles

You can tried to open a new restaurant, which required a lot of money and closure rate will work against you in a short amount of time. Probably send out audition tapes of yourself to join a reality TV show in a cooking competition. Be warned... you will need to sell yourself just to get to the contestant row on "Price is Right". They don't always look for the most talented chef, but also looking for ones that are "good" for TV. If you can cook and bring drama with your egotistical personality, you might be considered (so I'm told).
VEAL SHORT RIB - cauliflower cocoa butter, vadouvan, grape edamame shallot confiture
VEAL SHORT RIB - cauliflower cocoa butter, vadouvan, grape edamame shallot confiture

However, there is a better way these days. One of the few phenomenon that was happening in Los Angeles the past few years for the up and coming chefs to showcase their talent is through the pop-up channels. Which for one day or maybe a limited time engagements, a chef will come to a kitchen of a restaurant space to showcase their dishes.

LEMON LAQUERED CHICKEN - hot aerated potato, soy gelée, almond corianders oatmeal
LEMON LACQUERED CHICKEN - hot aerated potato, soy gelée, almond corianders oatmeal

One of the earliest pop-ups I ever attended was the Hatchi series that was presented at The Bread Bar in Century City. On day time, it's a full restaurant like anywhere else, but at night time of the said event, the Bread Bar's kitchen will gave way to the featured chef of the night. This was one of my favorite only because it's not full tasting menu where you can choose the numbers of dishes you wanted at a cost of $8 for each plate. At this monthly event, it usually featured an upstart, maybe a seasoned veteran in the industry that is letting people know he is available, or even a recent celeb chef that wanted to go in a different course and wanted to test out his new cuisine for his/her fans.

At this particular dinner, we were treated to dishes created by a former personal chef to the stars, Roberto Cortez. This international cuisine chef has very impressive lists of clients he had catered to and also had a very extensive culinary training background in five different countries. If you googled his name with the word "chef", you'll probably be impressed by the name of the celebrities he had served to.

SMOKED SHITAKE TERRINE - white corn velouté, Indonesian cinnamon butter, arugula
SMOKED SHITAKE TERRINE - white corn velouté, Indonesian cinnamon butter, arugula

The theme of the dinner prepared by Chef Cortez this particular evening was called "Unfamiliar Conflict". It was aptly named for the combination of different flavor profile that is served in each of the course. For instance, the above Smoked Shitake Terrine was an interesting contrast to this lively tasting. The white corn velouté is in sweet richer flavor profile while the terrine is in a bitter savory taste that is giving a tug and war pull of flavor contest.

Many of the dishes presented were offering a beyond the boundary approach considering the training background of the chef who has European and Latin cuisines in his repertoire. Asian components with Latin flavors mixed with European influences are some of the discoveries that were made. The dish that exposes that type of techniques were evident in the "Veal Short Ribs" and "Lemon Lacquered Chicken." Both dishes offered succulent take on otherwise familiar dishes that served in many upscale restaurants. Chef Cortez's unfamiliar conflict can be considered in the realms of avant garde in the culinary field for its bold take on unconventional flavors matching.

SPARKLING LEMONCURD MOUSSE - strawberry water caramel, mint oil, crêpe crunch
SPARKLING LEMON CURD MOUSSE - strawberry water caramel, mint oil, crêpe crunch

At the night, I think the desserts were probably the ones that get the most applause in our table even though I think the main courses were the ones that are the hardest to prepare and get my approvals. I think the Manjari Chocolate Cream dessert bowl with tiny pearls and cherries was probably the highlight for any of the desserts we ever had in any of the Hatchi series. The Valrhona chocolate that served in the bowl was divine and absolutely decadent.

8C MANJARI CHOCOLATE CREAM - thai spice cherries, frozen malt, guinness pearls
8C MANJARI CHOCOLATE CREAM - thai spice cherries, frozen malt, guinness

I think overall that if this was an audition for chef Cortez to impress his future scouts or gather new fans, he would have passed with flying colors. It's too bad on that they haven't continued the Hatchi series in a long time. Considering I had been out for a while, this event had taken place over a year ago, but yet still etched in my mind on what creativity it can bestowed upon if an up-and-coming chefs get to display his craft like Roberto Cortez had once did.

Alas the series is not active at this moment nor do Bread Bar is having a schedule event since middle of last season. There are few other pop-up series that are spreading around various part of Los Angeles. If there is ever a good route to go for a chef that is looking to make a name for themselves, these type of events would be a good "instant" course of action.

Hatchi at BreadBar by Roberto Cortez
10250 Santa Monica Blvd
Century City, CA 90067
(310) 277-3770

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Engagment Returns @ Ludobites at Royal/T (Culver City)



It's been a long while, but I think it's good to let everyone know someone's back. In the back of my mind, I probably was talking about myself, but alas someone bigger is getting that love. A larger presence who I think a lot of foodies are excited about is making a return engagement.

Yes... Ludo is back!

I'm sure there are skepticism being thrown out there about how food are getting to be the same. Such as why would food prepare by Chef Ludo Lefebvre is something to get excited about? Why the hype? Honestly, I can comprehend the initial waves of doubts that people may have. That is until they get a chance to actually come in and taste the food themselves. Many times often, they eventually would changed that tune and become one of the many converts.


VIP Table in the middle of the room!

To be quite honest, I needed to be initiated into this discovery by my good friend Gastronomnom who set up the first visit in the previous LudoBites visit at BreadBar. To get people acquainted about what LudoBites is and who Chef Ludo is, you probably will need to get some first hand knowledge before the obsessions and raves start kicking in.

For the shorter tale, it basically boiled down to be about one of the more creative chef in this fine city of Los Angeles who can create some of the traditional French fare and reinvented into one of his creative interpretation. One of the big kudo dish from my many visit at the BreadBar restaurant was a simple sandwich that not many people out there can replicate or captivate our taste buds.

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Confit Pork Belly, Pickled Mustard, Vadouvan Apple, Frisee - $12

The dish was the Foie Gras Black Croque that have various ingredients that probably could have been done, but somehow no one other than Chef Ludo Lefebvre was able to perfect. The Foie Gras Black Croque seemed simple to make, but yet have all the intricacy of flavors all meshed into one component. In fact, many of his dishes in the menu which he boldly experimented have not only was successful in terms of taste, but also have people wanting to be amaze with anticipation of something new. I think that may be the reason why so many followers and believers in Chef Ludo have to come to expect.

Since then, I became one of the converts and started raving about that dish which was one of the many reasons I went back in three visits in the span of less than three weeks. Pretty amazing, ain't it?

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Bread Soup, Poached Egg, Gruyere Marshmallow - $9

Chef Ludo have serve his creations in a modified restaurant which he set it up part time on what now the term is being called "pop-up" restaurants. This is where his restaurant would be temporary be stationed in a reserved location for a limited time, during which only dinner service are being served with his wonderful plates of different fusions he carefully crafted with many flavors blended into one plate of exquisite fine cuisine.

His 3.0 (Third limited engagement) of "LudoBites" was stationed at a cafe called Royal/T in Culver City.
Again, our fellow LudoBites fanatic Gastronomnom invited me again in another LudoBites outing with a few of the new Bloggers at the time, FoodForFel from the Food Ledger, The Minty, and Chef Austin from I'm Living to Eat. I spotted a few of fellow blogger friends as well who took in the big festivity that night such as Street Gourmet LA, Yutjangsah, E*Star LA, Sam, and Diana Takes a Bite.

What we experienced that night was extraordinary in that if you were not there, you really missed out. Those are the kind of moments you can wished you were there if you heard about it. For starters, the big draw that night was a marinated hanger steak served with a mole sauce. The weird arrangement would probably not go well if you heard it first hand, but after trying it and you'll be shocked to learn Chef Ludo was able to find a way to incorporate that mole sauce from a special Mexican recipe with special assistance from a very famous LA blogger, Teenage Glutster.

Mole sauce done the right way would have this sweet taste that goes well with savory items. For the life in me, I just never really thought it would go well with a piece of beef until I try it. Not only it made a believer out of me, but I was impressed at the numbers of tries that Chef Ludo experimented to make it work in his dishes.

There are other dishes that night that gained notoriety that night I should have revisited before the engagement of LudoBites 3.0 ended. Dishes such as a Foie Gras Beignet, Veal Udon with sesame seed miso and mushroom, or the Monterrey Squid with kimchee puree and a sheet of eggplant "paper".

The worst part is....I probably didn't do a good job of taking some of those photos because I was salivating to eat these wonderful creations. Then there is the funny part which was that LudoBites had set up a lighting tent was set up for anyone who wanted to take photos of their food at the corner of the restaurant. My only worries was that the food would get cold if I wanted to take photos of the food. Luckily, I was more interested in eating that night than taking photos. It doesn't happened often, but at those moments at that evening was one of those time.

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Veal Udon, Kombu Dashi, Mushroom & Sesame Seed Miso - $13


 
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Pistachio Rice Milk, Lemon Pound Cake on the side, Coffee Chantilly - $10


Obviously, the massive anticipation for the return for the 4th installment of this franchise is on full blast. In fact, I am sadly need to inform people that is sold out or fully booked in reservation until the last few weeks (those dates are blacked out from reservation). I'm already hearing the Ludo Fried Chicken (affectionately known as LFC by the fans) was making rounds in some special appearances before hand. Now I am ready for some new creative dishes that can be served out at a downtown LA location.

My visit to Ludobites 3.0 at Royal/T was a night I can't forget. Dishes that pretty much blow my mind. One of the very times where I probably was more interested in eating than taking photos of beautiful food. It doesn't happened often, but I can tell you that food are meant to be eaten and I was more than happy to reciprocate that thought. You can tell that the exciting new dishes that is in store for the LudoBites 4.0 will be greatly anticipated by yours truly.

Please do give a shout out to Ludo's wife, Krissy as she was more than happy to accommodate everyone that night and was willing to assist in making a memorable night for all diners. In fact, here's a Christmas photo we took courtesy of Krissy's help. Thanks again Krissy for the VIP table!!


LudoBites 3.0 at Royal/T Cafe
8910 Washington Blvd
Culver City, CA 90232
Ludo Bites at Royal/T on Urbanspoon



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post note: Here is the info in case you want to make a reservation at LudoBites 4.0. Keep in mind, people do flake or cancel their reservation at the last moment. You can always be squeezed in when things happened. Please make the reservation online. I don't think you can call in to Gram & Papas to make reservation, so please try the online reservation or leave an email for stand-by.
Reservation can be online for dates from April 8 to May 28, 2010: click here

LudoBites 4.0 at Gram & Papas
227 East 9th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90015

Thursday, August 6, 2009

All-Star Meetup @ Hatchi at BreadBar by Michael Voltaggio (Century City)


Last week was a star gazing at its finest. We're not talking about the usual celeb sightings that you routinely get at Century City, but rather we speak of the bloggers sightings! Seriously, how often do you see Bloggers in the middle of Mid-City other than Beverly Hills.

We're also not talking about Blogger proms or blogger conventions where bloggers meet bloggers, but rather an Average Joe coming to a restaurant will instantly know these camera hawks are not up to no good like some paparazzi.

Instead of worrying about which designer brand was the movie star wearing or which music star is shacking up with which reality TV wannabe, what most people wanted to know was: which camera is the prefer choice of the blogger and more importantly.... which lens are they using?

Big names was lounging around the outdoor mall of the Westfield Century City Mall waiting to be seated where I spotted Oishii Eats (sans her hubby, ahh C'mon D!). Many have arrived early with much anticipations and have been seated where luminaries such as kevinEats, Only Eat What Feed Your Soul, The Foodie Traveler, My Last Bites, and supposedly When Tara Met Blog who arrived much earlier have all gotten their tables. Our table was no slouch in filling in with the big shots such as LA & OC Foodventures, E*Star LA, Hey Hey Scensters, Kung Food Panda, Princess Kitty, and Folie à Choisauce.


Veal Sweetbread - Poached Egg, Pea Consomme, Coffee-Cardamom Soil

Why the fuss for a blogger party in the Westfield Century City Mall? For one night only, a special dinner prepared by Season 6 Top Chef contestant and current Chef de Cuisine at The Dining Room in Langham Hotel, Michael Voltaggio was able to lure in these types of enthusiastic crowd.

Let's get this out of this way as most people will point out the chaotic and spotty service. It was a rough going as some early patrons overstayed and enjoyed the restaurant atmosphere a while longer by ordering more wine. No harm in that. Kitchen was trying to catch up with the food that was ordered. Some were rushed with 4 dishes in the same time and arriving in out of order of sequences. It happens.

There was no way of avoiding this type of traffic with the only hope of redemption rests in the chef Voltaggio's cooking as the saving grace. Was it enough to overcome the early deficit? Without a further ado....


Japanese Tomato Tartare - Green Almonds, Parmesan "Overeasy", Tapenade Powders

The background of chef Voltaggio was briefly mentioned in my post about having a picture taken with him when a few of us attended a dinner at his former employment in Saam which is the private room in the restaurant "The Bazaar by José Andrés". Recipient of AAA Five Diamonds Award and finalist for the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant instantly makes him an uprising star in a town crowded with former Top Chef contestants hoping to make a mark in LA (Ilan Hall, Stefan Richter, Tiffany Faison, Antonia Lafaso, and Fabio Viviani).

Chef Voltaggio is one of the new wave of chefs who practice molecular gastronomy, but balanced it with modern techniques that favors the presentation and the flavor to match with the ingredients being presented. It was a treat to meet him at The Bazaar where he brings out some unique dishes to his repertoire and many of us were geeked to find out what he might have in store for us when he takes over the duty of chef de cuisine at Langham. As you can see, his one night viewing at The Bread Bar attracted big numbers of bloggers want to take advantage of the $8 per dish special that was advertised for the monthly Hatchi (Eight dishes for $8 each).


Artichokes "Barigoule" - Salmon Belly, Philadelphia Cheese, Smoked Salmon Roe


Hamachi Crudo - Smoked Egg Yolk, Sea Sponge, Watermelon, Wild Rice


Veal Sweetbread - Poached Egg, Pea Consomme, Coffee-Cardamom Soil (2nd Helpings)

The pictures that are posted in the chronic order it had arrived in. As it pointed out in obviously terms, the Veal Sweetbread was the first to arrive (should be the 4th). We love the poached egg which was one of the simple dish that chef Voltaggio have stated in Top Chef's bio which he love to create. The coffee cardamom added a sweet contrast to beautifully poached egg and the savory veal that was supposed to be the spotlight. It was the poached egg that won us over.

The Japanese Tomato Tartare was a big surprise we didn't expect because we thought there was an egg whites on top of the tomato tartare, but it was rather a thinly disguised Parmesan cheese covers the well seasoned tomato. It's well noted that a tomato and cheese substituted for the beef and egg, but it worked beautifully as the light dish starting off early in our course will gradually prepare us for the heavier savory dish that will come up.

The salmon and hamachi that followed the veal sweetbread and tomato tartare were both provided in a beautiful presentation. Both dishes were greeted with the accompanied vegetables in a well thought out plate that will highlight the flavor profile of the dishes. For the hamachi, it was on top of a fresh watermelon with a dash of egg yolk for sauce. Being fresh as it was, the hamachi being mixed with fresh components would just melt in your mouth and you still can take in the flavor for a bit while after your initial bite. The salmon belly with cheese was a strange choice for mixture of flavors, but sandwiched between the artichoke, it did taste very smoothly with the amount of balance. It did seemed to look like a cream cheese on a sushi, but it worked out much better than my initial reaction.


Crispy Chicken Thigh - Cuttlefish, Green Garlic, Sweet and Sour Mushrooms


Wagyu Beef - Short Rib, Saul's Pastrami, Tamarind, Broccoli Textures, Horseradish "Styrofoam"

How did the final two savory dish worked out? It's too bad that Veal Sweetbread went first because it was suppose to join these duo as part of the bigger middle of the line up.

Here's the magic for the Crispy chicken with cuttlefish, it tasted great with the Belgium beer that was provided to us by the head of the service staff. No joke, the beer washed down beautifully of the well cooked crispy chicken and the tender cuttlefish (looked like a string of noodles) and was the best pairing of the night in terms of which alcohol beverage goes great with which dish. If we can figured a savor dish for Fat Tire, I'm all in.

The Wagyu beef with a string of pastrami underneath had a sweet sauce lavished over both of them. For kevinEats, it reminds him of a Tamarind sauce, for me I thought it was of sweeter soy sauce. I make sure to get a piece of the horseradish Styrofoam that was shaped like a sugar cube and toss it in to the green broccoli sauce, both would counteract against the sweet sauce that was on the Wagyu beef. Hot off the stove, the beef was tender and the pastrami underneath serves as a great wrapper around the ingredients and beef. Both dishes ended well for us before the desserts as the food served as a memory loss potion for the earlier chaotic service we have gotten.


Fool's Gold - Hazelnut Praline, Salty Caramel, Nitro Coffee Mousse


Miso Cake - Jasmine "Rice Cream", Strawberry, Yuzu

The desserts both have its moments and was the closer for the night. The fool's gold was a playful reenactment of a dish that resembles the great find of the gold rush, except this was better than your average gold findings. The chocolate mousse and the salty caramel was going to be an appetite killer if you started it off with those two combination. Make sure you get hazelnut praline first before frolicking in this "fool's gold". It's not the ice cream you thought it was going to be.

Luckily some of us decided to get started on the Miso cake first before further digging on the fool's gold. The miso cake had an interesting component on the plate which confuses me as a slice of spam. On further inspection, it was a sliced of savory ham that mashes with the sweet rice cream. Before we continued, we decided to drink the last two pairing of the wine to see if compliment well with the desserts. Lo and behold, it actually did served as a great elixir to mix the flavor profile of sweet and savory very well. The fool's gold of salty caramel still need to be eaten last, but at least we know something can counterbalance that after taste.

Overall, all of us did enjoyed experiencing the dishes that chef Michael Voltaggio have to display before his big move to Langham Hotel on the same week. It's enough of the preview we needed to make a visit to the Dining Room in the near future.

Weird arrange of order of dishes at first, but all well that ends well is what it matters.

As in for the blogger meetup in the Bread Bar, I cannot tell you on how many passerby have remarked that "it's probably a Blogger convention" when they see a half dozen cameras going on simultaneously in the same table whenever a dish come out. For one night, it was exciting to meet the superstars of the Foodie Bloggers world all arriving to the same arena for the same adventure. Similar interests with different methods are all on display. You can say it's one of those party where everyone shares their crafts and trades to the similar enthusiasts.

I can only hope another all-star meetup that can exist in a tiny arena happens in the distant future.

Hatchi at BreadBar by Michael Voltaggio
10250 Santa Monica Blvd
Century City, CA 90067
(310) 277-3770